turning a bowl on a foot-powered lathe
by Lathe on Oct.02, 2009, under Lathe Videos
Robin Wood demonstrates how a bowl is made on a traditional foot-powered lathe. If you have any questions take a look at the forum on www.bodgers.org.uk
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October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
An excellent historical reenactment! The tool appears to be a typical old style hook nose…shaped out of flat steel shaped to a “C” at the end, with the bevel running from inside the “C” shape to outer edge. Tool is held about 45 Degrees – with the open part of the “C” facing about 2:30 on the clock so the back part of the “C” slices away the wood.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
I’ve watched this countless times and it never ceases to amaze me. I am wondering if I could please ask you a few questions about your Lathe and tools? I am rejoining my old reenactment group that are now doing Viking age colonization. I know a bit about pottery but that wasn’t as widely used at wood or metal being that they are more durable. I’d love to learn more about your craft. Please contact me if you have the time. Thank you.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
No need of a health club membership. It looks as though magic happens at 3:40. What type of curved tool shaped the inner bottom of the bowl?
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
A master craftsman at work making it look easy but just try it youself to find out what it takes. Until the 17th century most domestic plates, bowls, cups and spoons used in Britain were wooden. George Lailey was the last full time pole lathe bowl turner. George died in 1958 but Robin has single handedly revived the craft.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
Fabulous my friend
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
it is a common misconception that reciprocal motion is inefficient. I often get folk suggesting how it could be made better, I never saw anyone tell a man using a hammer how much energy he was wasting bringing the hammer back like that every time.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
I was thinking if you attached one of those stair steppers that powers a fan (used at yard sale), it’d be at least 50% more efficient turning in one direction only and with much greater velocity.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
Excellent craftsman. The real deal, true to period methods and tools. Good product turned out in good time. Thanks for posting.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
sorry for the slow reply, basically the end of the metal that’s in the mandrel is blunt and the bit sticking out is pointy so it chooses to drive into the blank instead of further into the mandrel.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
hello, Robin,
after watching this video several times I wondered
How do you get the metal spikes on the mandrel to go into the bowl instead of being driven further up into the mandrel?
Liam
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
That would be fine, email is the best way to contact me to check when I am at the workshop
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
I make mandrels out of any dry wood I have about and fit metal hoops to stop the ends splitting when I hit it with a big hammer
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
its hard work, about as hard as walking uphill but the arms get tired too.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
Cheers Robin
Loads of rubbish on here. Yours is one of the gems worth watching.
As a keen amateur Photographer, I’d love to call and shoot some image. I live I Sheffield.
Just amazing work thanks.
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
What did you make the mandril out of?
October 2nd, 2009 on 2:45 am
very skilled. I wonder how tiring it is? I loved this video by the way!